Unimatic Modello Uno watches

The Unimatic Modello Uno (U1) is the Milan-based brand's dive-style watch and its most popular model. Unimatic was founded in 2015 by Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato, and it makes each reference in a limited run.

The design is a stripped-back take on the classic dive watch, mixing elements of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the Rolex Submariner with most of the markings taken away. The case is 41.5 mm steel under sapphire, and the U1 Classic pairs a matte black dial with pale-green markers. Inside is the Seiko NH35 automatic, and the watches are assembled about 30 minutes from Milan with Made in Italy on the dial. The Modello Uno GMT uses the Seiko NH34A, which adds a 24-hour hand that is set independently.

What separates one U1 from the next is mostly the bezel and the dial. The U1-A, U1-D and U1-E have a 60-minute dive scale, and the U1-DL puts it over a blue dial. The U1-B, U1-EM and grey-dial U1-EG use a blank bezel with a single marker. The green-dial U1-DZ and U1-DZN have a 12-hour bezel. Two Hodinkee editions came in runs of 500: the grey-dial U1-H with a dive bezel and the U1-HGMT, a black-dial GMT with a 24-hour bezel. The U1-KSA, with a single-marker bezel, is limited to 99.

Collaborations carry the partner's name in the model: Colette (U1-C), Mihara Yasuhiro (U1-MY), Nous Paris (U1-NU), NASA (U1-SP, white dial) and SpongeBob SquarePants (U1-SS), each in 50 pieces, and the blue-dial Mr Porter U1-MP in 100.